Friday, July 11, 2014

ORIS – Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter



ORIS Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter NEW

The new Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter

More than 75 years after Oris made its first pilot’s watch, the company is proud to announce the launch of the most innovative pilot’s watch in its history – the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter, the world’s first automatic mechanical watch with a mechanical altimeter.

It’s the latest in a long line of Oris pilot’s watches, stretching back to 1938. Oris has a proud tradition of making accurate, reliable, industrially manufactured and sensibly priced wristwatches, which is why Oris has become the pilot’s choice.


The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter has been developed entirely by Oris to serve as a high-performance instrument for pilots.

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The altimeter of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is activated by unscrewing the crown into ‘Position 1’, indicated by a red ring. Once set, the watch shows the current altitude via a yellow indicator, and the corresponding air pressure via a red indicator.

Watchmaking takes to the skies

The histories of watchmaking and aviation are inextricably linked. Developments in aviation during the first four decades of the 20th century had transformed the notion of heavier-than-air flight from an impossible dream into a commercial, industrial and military reality. Flying was the future – it was fast, exciting, dangerous, and the men and women who took to the skies became heroic figures.

Like the aircraft themselves, early navigational flying aids were very basic. It quickly became clear that pilots needed quality timekeeping instruments they could depend on when planning routes and manoeuvres, and undertaking airborne missions.

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  A photo taken in 1953 of the Oris factory in Hölstein, where the company has been based since 1904 until today.

Pocket watches were still the trend during the early flight years at the beginning of the 20th century. But for pilots, who would be gloved to protect them from the elements, fumbling around in a pocket for an important reading was impractical.

The practical alternative was a watch worn on the wrist. No longer hidden from view, wristwatches meant pilots could quickly and easily reference the time without a great deal of movement. Wristwatches were quickly adopted by pilots around the world.

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Accurate wristwatches played a vital role in the war effort. Here, US pilots synchronise their timepieces before take-off.


A period of innovation

But they weren’t perfect, and improvements followed. Movements became smaller, because few pilots could wear a pocket watch on their wrist without it being an obstruction in the confined space of a cockpit. Dials became more legible, stripped back to the essentials, with luminescent materials applied to the hands and hour markers so the watch could be read during night flying. And crowns became larger so pilots could operate a watch while wearing gloves.

As aircraft and the men and women who flew them became more and more popular, so the pilot’s watch aesthetic grew in influence. Those returning from wartime operations were heroes – and their standard-issue watches became symbols of their heroic deeds. Aviation made wristwatches both better and more fashionable.

The pilot’s choice

Oris was at the heart of this sea change. The original 1938 Big Crown Pointer Date watch was pioneering, not just because of its oversized crown, but because of its pointer date function, a design that would become the Oris signature.

In the decades since, Oris has produced legion pilot’s watches. Over the last 20 years, many have been produced in honour of Oris partnerships; others have been limited editions, created to mark significant landmarks in aviation history or the achievements of contemporary pilots.

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Produced in 1938, the Oris Pointer Date had a central hand indicating the date and an oversized crown. Today it has become th brand’s signature design.


The Oris Flight Timer 1945 LE marked 60 years since the end of the Second World War; the Oris Polly Vacher Limited Edition celebrated the remarkable British aviatrix, who in 2003 became the first woman to fly solo around the globe via the North and South Poles; and this year, the Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition embodies the company’s partnership with the iconic Australian aeromedical service.

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The Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service Limited Edition pays tribute to the Royal Flying Doctor Service, which provides vital aeromedical healthcare across Australia.

Mainstays of the Oris aviation collection include the Big Crown (continuing the story started 76 years ago), the BC3 and the BC4. The BC3 was introduced in 1999 and is a classic pilot’s watch, with a robust round case, and black or white dials with simple, highly legible detailing. The BC4 design first appeared in 2008. Its design was based on high-functioning cockpit instruments, and it came loaded with functionality – current models carry chronographs, retrograde dates, regulator dials and a world timer that shows three time zones simultaneously, one of which can be adjusted forwards or backwards in one-hour jumps via plus and minus pushbuttons on either side of the case. In 2009, the BC4 won a prestigious Red Dot Design award.

The story continues…

Aviation continues to play a significant role in the Oris line-up. In 2014, Oris introduced the Big Crown ProPilot collection, a series of mechanical watches designed to cope with life in the cockpit. Initially, there were three models – a date, a day/date, both with an enlarged font size, and a chronograph. Now, the Swiss watch company is unveiling the most complicated pilot’s watch it has ever made – the Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter. The new watch is an innovation pioneered by Oris in its Höl stein factory, and the world’s first and patented automatic mechanical watch with a mechanical altimeter.

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The new Oris ProPilot Collection: (l-r) the Big Crown ProPilot Chronograph GMT, the Big Crown ProPilot Day Date, and the Big Crown ProPilot Date. All three pieces boast a coin-edged bezel – a design element inspired by the turbines of a jet engine.

It demonstrates Oris’s exceptional watchmaking know-how and horological ambition, both of which have been built up over 110 years of watchmaking history.

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The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter has two crowns. The crown at 2 o’clock is used to adjust the time and date. The second crown at 4 o’clock operates the altimeter.


Air Time
The new Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter

An instrument designed for altitude workers

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter has been developed entirely by Oris to serve as a high-performance instrument for pilots, mountaineers, explorers and research scientists, who work at altitude. Its sturdy 47mm multi-piece stainless steel case houses an Oris automatic movement, and a Swiss mechanical barometric altimeter and barometer movement.

One of the biggest challenges facing Oris engineers was the design of the altimeter hand itself. Making the altimeter mechanism small enough to fit inside a wristwatch meant the hand had to be extremely lightweight, but stiff enough to avoid tolerances and therefore inaccurate readings. The solution was to create it from laminated carbon fibre, making the hand seven times lighter, but 10 times stiffer than the average watch hand.

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The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is available in three different textile straps: grey, green and black. Here shown with the grey textile strap and feet scale.


Another challenge was how to protect the inner workings of the watch from moisture when the altimeter is activated. Oris patented a new altimeter adjustment and venting crown, which prevents moisture from entering the watch using a membrane made of PTFE, which creates a vapour barrier.

The above mentioned aspects are covered by an Oris patent i.e. the multi-function adjustment venting crown, the co-axial layout of the watch and altimeter movements, including a skeletonised movement holder, and the carbon fibre altimeter hand.

How the patented Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter works

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter has two crowns. The crown at 2 o’clock is a conventional crown to adjust the time and date, and to wind the watch as necessary (the automatic movement has a 38-hour power reserve).

A second screw-down crown at 4 o’clock operates the altimeter. When screwed down into ‘Position 0’, the altimeter is inactive and the watch is water-resistant to 10 bar. The altimeter is activated by unscrewing the crown into ‘Position 1’, indicated by a red ring.

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 The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is also available with a metre scale. Alternatively, the timepiece can be equipped with a leather strap or a metal bracelet.

When the crown is pulled out into ‘Position 2’, thealtimeter can be calibrated. Once set, the watch shows the current altitude via the yellow indicator, and the corresponding air pressure via the red indicator. The altitude scale is around the outer dial ring; it can measure altitude up to 15,000 feet or 4,500 metres (two models have been produced, one with a scale in feet, one in metres). The air pressure scale is recessed between the altimeter scale and the central dial. Once the altimeter is no longer required, the crown can be returned to Position 0 by screwing it down, resealing the watch case and ensuring it is once again water-resistant to 10 bar.

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter, the world’s first automatic mechanical altimeter watch developed for ambitious explorers.

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Technical Specifications

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter

Ref. 733 7705 4134 TS , Ø 47.00mm, with Feet Scale Limited edition 200 pieces
Ref. 733 7705 4164 TS, Ø 47.00mm, with Metre Scale Limited edition 200 pieces

Movement
· Oris automatic mechanical movement Cal. 733, based on SW200 with date
window at 3 o’clock
· Integrated Swiss mechanical barometric altimeter and barometer movement
Case
 · Multi-piece stainless steel case.
  Water-resistant to 10 bar/100m
· Sapphire crystal domed and with anti-reflective coating on both sides
· Screwed case back
· Screw-in stainless steel crowns.
  Patented Oris altimeter adjustment and venting crown, incl. a PTFE vapour barrier
Dial
 · Black dial with printed Arabic numerals filled with Super-LumiNova®, same
as hour and minute hands
· Altimeter hand made from laminated carbon fibre
Strap
 · Textile strap with stainless steel folding clasp.
  Also available with leather strap or metal bracelet

· Swiss Retail Price:
CHF 3,300 with textile strap,
CHF 3,500 with metal bracelet
· Available from September 2014

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Press Release - 2014 
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 www.facebook.com - ORIS
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www.Oris.ch

F.P.Journe – A New Dial in Gold


F.P.JourneA New Dial in Gold

Timeless Elegance and sheer perfection for the new F.P.Journe face
Ever since François-Paul Journe created timepieces, his dream was to manufacture them in Gold. The dream became reality in 2004, and F.P.Journe is today the only watch brand to produce its movements in 18K rose Gold.

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Before diving in the heart of its haute horology mysterious mechanical gear trains, one discovers first their face through their emblematic dials, made today in massive 18K Gold, with embossed mirror numbers integrated in the dial.

F.P.JourneChronomètre Souverain Gold

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After a very careful preparation of the dial, including a refined sanding for the base to be perfect, a specific F.P.Journe silver layer is applied. The numbers are then surfaced with a diamond tool making them appear like mirrors on the dial. The last operation is the print transfer for the time indications and the F.P.Journe logo which requires up to 5 successive layers for a perfect bombé shape.
Completed with the F.P.Journe drop shaped hands, the new Gold dial is dedicated to the Chronomètre Souverain, the Octa Réserve and the Octa Lune. These 3 watches are available in the 10 F.P.Journe Boutiques.

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Technical Specifications

Model:  Chronomètre Souverain

Movement Exclusive F.P.Journe caliber 1304
    Manually wound by 38 turns
    Movement in 18K rose Gold
Dimensions of the Movement
    Overall diameter : 30.40 mm
    Casing-up diameter : 29.60 mm
    Overall height : 3.75 mm
    Height of winding system : 2.30 mm
    Diameter of stem thread : S0.90 mm
Balance
    Four inertia weights
    Flat Anachron microflamed spring
    Mobile stud holders
    Free sprung
    Nivatronic laser-welded to collet
    Pinned GE stud
    Frequency : 21,600 v / h, (3Hz)
    Inertia : 10.10 mg /cm2
    Angle of lift : 52°
    Amplitude : 0h dial up : > 320°
    24h dial up : > 280°
Principal characteristics
    Two mainspring barrels in parallel
   Time adjustment via crown in position 2
    Pallets escapement with 15 tooth escape wheel
    Two position crown
Indications
    Central hours and minutes
    Sub-second at 7h30
    Power reserve at 3h00
Power reserve
    56 hours +- 2h.
Decoration
    Partly circular grained baseplate, solar grained
    Polished screw heads, chamfered slots
    Pegs with polished rounded ends
Case
    Platinum or red gold
    Diameter : 40.00 mm (or 38mm upon request)
    Height : 8.60 mm
Dial
    Red Gold case: red Gold with silver, numbers integrated in the dial, hands golden 5N
    Platinum case: white gold with silver, numbers integrated in the dial, hands in steel
Number of Pieces
    Movement without dial : 161
    Cased-up on leather strap: 198
    Jewels : 22

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F.P.JourneOcta Reserve Gold
 
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F.P.JourneOcta Lune Gold
 
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Technical Specifications

Model:  Octa Réserve & Octa Lune

Movement  Exclusive F.P.Journe calibre 1300.3
Unidirectional automatic winding
   Movement in 18K rose gold
Dimensions of the movement
   Total diameter: 30.80 mm
   Casing-up diameter 30.40 mm
   Overall height: 5.70 mm
   Height of winding system: 3.00 mm
   Diameter of stem thread S0.90 mm
Balance Four adjustable inertia weights
   Anachron flat balance spring
   Mobile stud holder
   Free-sprung
   Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring
   Pinned GE stud
   Frequency: 21,600v/h (3Hz)
   Inertia: 10.10 mg*cm2
   Angle of lift: 52°
   Amplitude: 0h dial up: >300° -
   120h dial up: >280°
Main Characteristics  
   Three position crown – winding of the watch in position 0, clock wise - 
   Correction of date in position 1, anti clock wise – correction of the moon in position 1, 
   (AL) – correction of time in position 2 - Instantaneous jump calendar - 
   Off-centre winding rotor – barrel with slipping spring – Escapement 15 tooth
Indication Reserve  
   Central hours and minutes - Small seconds at 4:30 -  
   Large date at 11h30 - Power-reserve indicator at 9 o’clock –
Indication Moon   
   Central hours and minutes - Small seconds at 6h00 - 
    Large date at 11h30 - Power-reserve indicator at 9 o’clock – 
   Moon phase at 7h00
Autonomy 120 ± 12 hours
Winding speed on watch winder: 274 rotations / 24 hours
Decoration 
   Circular côtes de Genève on bridges – partly circular graining on base plate – polished screw heads with chamfered slots – chamfered and circular grained wheels – 
   Steel components hand polished and chamfered
Case dimensions 
   Platinum or 18K red Gold
   40 mm (or 38 mm upon request)
 
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MONTRES JOURNE SA
Brigitte Bocquet-Makhzani - Communication
International PR & Events Manager
17, rue de l’Arquebuse – 1204 Geneva – Switzerland
Tel : +41 (0)22 322 09 09 / Fax : +41 (0)22 322 09 19
e-mail :bmakhzani@fpjourne.com
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www.F.P.Journe.com